REVIEW | Six New Vancouver Restaurants Added to Michelin Guide
Photo Credit: Wildlight Kitchen + Bar
The French tire company Michelin published their first red restaurant guide in 1900. It has become a widely recognized and revered marker of restaurant quality, whose scope of influence only continues to grow as it expands around the world. The five universal criteria are using quality products, mastery of flavour and cooking techniques, personality of chef in the cuisine, the value for money, and the consistency of the food.
While being featured in the Michelin Guide is already an honour, there are three additional awards restaurants can receive: the Michelin star, which is awarded to unique restaurants that push boundaries and innovate new dishes, presentation and culinary techniques; the Bib Gourmand, which is given to restaurants that provide good service and excellent food for a more affordable price; and the Green Star, which is given to restaurants that apply sustainable practices to their cooking. Currently, there are nine restaurants in Vancouver with a Michelin star. Additionally, there are 17 restaurants with a Bib Gourmand award, including one reviewed in this article, Seaport City Seafood. There are no restaurants in Vancouver with a green star.
The first Canadian Michelin Guide was published in 2022, starting with award ceremonies in Toronto, with Vancouver following soon after. In September, six new Vancouver restaurants were added to the guide, rounding up the number of featured restaurants from our city to 78. These six recent additions are summarised and reviewed below. Bon Appétit!
Wildlight Kitchen + Bar
Cuisine: West Coast
Price: $$ - $$$
5380 University Blvd #107
The Story
Having just opened its doors in early 2023, Wildlight Kitchen and Bar is already turning heads with its innovative use of local ingredients like pacific salmon and produce from a neighbouring UBC farm. At Wildlight, British Columbian chef Warren Chow celebrates the culinary elements of the West Coast, highlighting foods found in the Vancouver region as well as the food culture of the Musqueam peoples, upon whose land their restaurant is located. The Wildlight team believes that “the West Coast of Canada is a place like no other,” according to their website. Located at UBC, the restaurant blends clean modern lines with wooden details to create an open and uplifting atmosphere. It is a great place to check out for lunch, but can get quite expensive for larger meals.
Food to Try
Crispy Tofu Bowl: a perfect (and cheap) way to start your meal at Wildlight. With heavy notes of umami and integration of fresh flavours like the chilli garlic salt and produce, this bowl incorporates west coast flavours while creating a balance of spicy, sweet and salty.
Sundried Tomato Flatbread: this side, which is topped with pesto, bocconcini and confit garlic, uniquely integrates fresh flavours into an Italian classic.
Seasonal Risotto: currently features sweet creamed corn, tangy brown butter gremolata, shishito peppers and is topped with grilled sweet corn and sharp roasted parmesan crisps. This dish incorporates in-season produce with warming risotto and parmesan to create a perfect dinner on a cold night.
Lemon Tart: an airy dessert served with torched meringue and macerated berries.
Pink Guava Cheesecake: this cheesecake takes the musky underappreciated guava fruit and pairs it with a toasted almond crumble and berries for a perfect touch of sweetness.
Tetsu Sushi Bar
Cuisine: Japanese
Price: $$$$
775 Denman St
The Story
This 12 seat restaurant puts the spotlight on Japanese flavours to modernise traditional classics. Due to the size and limited capacity, the restaurant offers an intimate experience made better by the quality of the interiors and the food, which are mainly imported from Japan. However, due to the high prices and reservation fee of $198-220 per person, as well as the current number of reservations, this restaurant may not be as accessible for Hamber students.
Food to Try
Omakase menu: a unique five course meal which includes 5-6 seasonal appetisers, chawanmushi: a steamed egg custard, 13 pieces of sushi, Tamago: an omelette dish and a special dessert.
À la carte menu: currently features an array of appetisers, fish, noodles, sushi and desserts, all for individual purchase. From the à la carte menu, crowd favourites include the chawanmushi, a steamed egg topped with a seasonal savoury, the udon noodles, the assortment of nigiri sushi and the creamy white coffee pudding.
Photo Credit: Moltaqa via OpenTable
Moltaqa
Cuisine: Moroccan
Price: $$$
1002 Mainland St
The Story
Dining here is an experience that whisks you away, and it all starts with the sweet mint tea, which is a must-have upon arrival. The concept of this restaurant is to create a place for people to connect over the unique and diverse Moroccan cuisine, giving diners a snapshot of the culture and heritage through the food. This restaurant's success is also important to their mission, as there are few Moroccan restaurants in Vancouver, and now that it has been added to the Michelin Guide, more people will have the chance to explore the cuisine. This intimate restaurant has an aromatic ambience with its use of rich colours; the decor, like the carpets, paintings, candles and upholstery, really adds to the atmosphere. Authentic use of spices and textures make the semi-expensive prices worth every bite!
Food to Try
Zalouk Eggplant and Pepper Stew: very smoky and sharp with the powerful flavour of eggplant, and the notes of robust roasted pepper.
Saffron Rice: No matter what you order, it has to be accompanied by this rich delicacy with hints of sweetness from currants and peas.
Sampler Platter: Also a great way to try different dishes, although the price goes up to around $35 for two to four people.
Baklava or Snake Cake: After dinner, you can’t leave without trying this. Although there are many variations of baklava in different cuisines, the Moroccan treat takes inspiration from the Arabic variety, which features pistachio and walnut flavours.
Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar
Cuisine: Seafood
Price: $$$-$$$$
845 Burrard St
The Story
This restaurant, a hidden gem nestled beside the Sutton hotel, integrates local and international flavours to create an elevated dining experience. Its interiors take inspiration from European bistros while adding a contemporary flare with use of marble, dark panelling and golden accents. Despite this, it still manages to create a warm ambience that is inviting and intimate. The cuisine at Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar focuses on seafood and is best known for their famous seafood tower which features tuna, mussels, crab and prawns and costs $79 for two. If you can’t imagine yourself splurging on a main, then drop by and take advantage of their unique desserts, like the pumpkin vacherin, which shows pastry chef’s Kenta Takahashi’s brilliance.
Food to Try
Fall Harvest Salad: a powerful side dish filled with complementing fall flavours like smoky bartlett pear, nutty celery root and rich kale, accompanied with other flavours like truffle manchego. This is a perfect way to embrace fall, and to eat at Boulevard on a budget.
House Sourdough: served with balsamic, olive oil and truffle cream, which elevates this simple classic.
Pumpkin Vacherin: an elegant pumpkin meringue made of panna cotta and topped with kabocha squash, pumpkin crema and tea ice cream. This dessert is so perfect for autumn, and its use of innovative flavours bring out the sweetness in the squash.
Photo Credit: Lindsay William Ross/Vancouver Is Awesome
Seaport City Seafood
Cuisine: Chinese
Price: $$$
2425 Cambie St
The Story
Nestled just off the corner of Cambie and Broadway, Seaport City Seafood could be from any big city, as its service, decor and cuisine radiate sophistication. Having taken over an old Milestones location, the space has been completely transformed by the vision of the staff. While the old restaurant was dark, Seaport City has contemporary interiors with eye- capturing light fixtures and elevated open concept dining areas. The food itself varies in portion size, but the quality and artful presentation stays consistent throughout the menu. For Hamberites, I would recommend stopping by for a light meal or dessert, for an opportunity to try new foods, while still keeping the bill within double digits!
Food to Try
Fried Rice: a classic Chinese dish.
Tofu with Preserved Egg: an innovative dish.
Shredded Tofu: accompanied by dried shrimp pot.
Sauteed Lamb with Scallions: a hearty meat dish.
Green Bean Jelly: served in chilli sauce.
Almond Milk Egg Whites: made with fresh almond milk and served with mochi dumplings.
Photo Credit: Nosh and Nibble
Elisa
Cuisine: Steakhouse
Price: $$$-$$$$
1109 Hamilton St
The Story
Elisa, fine dining group Toptable’s newest addition, “resets the table of what a modern steakhouse experience feels and tastes like,” according to Michael Doyle, Toptable group’s president. Its interiors balance both rich colours with light intricate decor to create an elevated experience that radiates that aura of fine dining. Sadly, the prices ($15-$30 for a side, $55-$225 for a steak, and $30-$100 for a main) also reflect the class and elegance of this Yaletown restaurant, so it may not be as accessible to Hamber students.
Food to Try
Giant White Bean and Vegetable Soup: For a filling and warming starter, which has simmered root vegetables, brassicas, rosemary and sourdough croutons, this soup is a perfect option for fall.
Brussel Sprouts: fried and topped with brown butter and parmesan, are such a crowd pleaser!
Roasted Potatoes: topped with herbs, are perfect sides and are a good size for a lunch serving.
Baked Alaska: incorporates rich flavours like caramelised banana rum ice cream and the peanut butter crémeux, with the sweetness in the browned butter cake and the banana purée.